Tuesday, 11 November 2014

No Man's Grace, Chandos Road

No Man's Grace
6 Chandos Rd, Bristol BS6 6PE
http://nomansgrace.com/

My best friend and I celebrate our birthdays three days apart and have done since we were 13. This year marked our 20th birthday together but for the first time in 20 years we weren't together. My superstar best friend is currently in Sierra Leone working in a lab testing samples for ebola so had a far more important place to be on our birthdays.

So instead of doing nothing, I hooked up with another couple of friends who had some celebrating to do of their own. They have just reached their first anniversary and they met at one of my Samba gigs. So we decided to have a night full of celebrations and to raise a glass to my absent best friend.


No Man's Grace has taken over Moorish's old place on Chandos Road. We were impressed by Moorish so we were sad when it closed, but it meant No Man's Grace has been on our radar for a while. We had already decided we were going to aim for a cocktail or two at Charlie's bar so we wanted something walkable. We have already rinsed Cotham Hill for food so wanted to branch slightly further afield and No Man's Grace fitted the bill.

We had planned to meet at Aviator for some pre-dinner boozes, but it was closed for a memorial event so for the second evening in a row we were propping the bar up in the restaurant.

The menu at No Man's Grace is sold as a starter and desserts bar and there was plenty on the menu to tempt us. The starter plates ranged in price from £2 for a portion of bread up to £8.50 for a Venison Carpaccio and between £6.50 and £7.50 for a dessert. We decided on a selection of dishes with a range of prices to share between the four of us. Service was a little slow, but we knew from sitting up at the bar that they were short staffed and there was also a large party in that night. We weren't fussed as long as we had a full glass!

Here are the plates we sampled:
  • Plaice Goujons, Lemon Mayo £4.00
  • Butternut Squash, Gnocchi, Sage & Chestnut Pesto £6.50
  • Braised Ox Cheek on Toast, Pickled Carrot, Maple Bacon £7.00
  • Keens Cheddar and Bread £2.50
  • Thai Green Mussels £5.50
  • Grilled Radicchio, Blue Cheese, Burnt Honey, Pear, Walnut £7.00
  • Cod, Warm Black Pudding & Pickled Cauliflower Salad £8.00

All were delicious but the stand out dish was the plaice goujons. Perfectly cooked mouthfuls of fish with a lovely tangy mayo. The braised ox cheek was also lovely but when split between 4 it was only a small mouthful each, I would have liked a whole one to myself. I think this was our main complaint, all the dishes were quite small and not really shareable which when the food is good it's nice to do. I think this made it feel pricely and we could feel the bill racking up with every mouthful. Perhaps if we'd not shared, it would have felt like better value, but then you don't get to try all you want. Catch 22. Husband and I had planned on 3 starters and 3 desserts to share between us, but this was not enough to satisfy us and we ended up with an extra bread order and a cheese taster to try and bridge the gap.

We moved onto pudding and choose a selection from the list:
  • Apple Crumble Slice, Almond Ice Cream £6.50
  • Banana Bread Souffle, Clotted Cream Ice Cream £7.50
  • Sticky Toffee Pudding, Cherry Sorbet £7.00
  • White Chocolate Crème Brulee, Cherry Sorbet, Ginger £7.00
 
For me the banana bread soufflé was the winner although husband will dispute that ruling in favour of the sticky toffee pudding. Both were good and the portion size was better although still quite pricey when compared to desserts in most restaurants.
 
We also tried a variety of cocktails between us which were all great: 
  • Elderflower Aviation 6°clock Gin, Lemon Juice, Maraschino, Elderflower Cordial
  • Negroni 6°Clock Gin, Campari, Sweet Vermouth
  • Stanley 6 o’clock gin, Appleton rum, lemon, grenadine
  • Sazerac Sazerac rye whiskey, Peychaud bitters, dash of absinthe
  • The Crow Heaven Hill bourbon, cranberry, pineapple
  • Calvados Cocktail Calvados, Cointreau, orange bitters, orange juice
 
We had a lovely evening and all the staff were great. The food was tasty but our wallets felt the pinch at the end of the night - maybe a testament to our enjoyment of the cocktails which were certainly fun. A great birthday/anniversary dinner in a lovely venue. I'd like to return and when I do I will be a lot more selfish with my choices (and perhaps drink a little less).
 
 
  

Monday, 10 November 2014

Birch, Raleigh Road

Birch
47 Raleigh Road, Southville, BS3 1QS
http://birchbristol.co/

Twitter in Bristol has been alight with excitement about Birch and it's been on my wish list to try since it opened. North Street and the surrounding area has been totally spoilt lately with new openings and it's frustrating for a North Bristol resident that Bristol transport links are so shoddy that it makes a trip over to the other side of town a total pain if you don't have a designated driver. That elusive trifecta of events which mean I get to try out new places south of the river is a rare occurrence so I was delighted when the birthday stars collided and I got to sample Birch for myself.

We booked in for 9pm and we found ourselves in the area an hour early with no hope of finding a car parking space on one of the wettest nights of the year so far. After driving around the North Street area searching for a space so we could enjoy a pre-dinner drink we gave up and called Birch in the hope they could squeeze us in early. No luck, but they were perfectly fine with us holding up their bar for an hour so we gave up on North Street and managed to find a parking spot nearby.

Birch is sneaky little establishment; away from the hustle and bustle of North Street in a residential area. It has limited covers and the menu is about as fresh and seasonal as it gets. It even changes during service when popular items sell out. Whilst we waited for our table we sampled some drinks; husband plumped for the "In the Groves" beer from local boys Wiper and True whilst I also stayed close to home with a Psychopomp Gin and Tonic. We also snacked on the cheese straws which were suprising but pleasantly spicy.

Our table was ready spot on time and we decided on our starters of brawn, celeriac and mustard and the salad of radicchio, pear, ewes curd and cobnut. My salad was tweaked slightly to use a different cheese but it was tasty. Husband enjoyed his headcheese but admitted he thought I'd picked the better choice. I wasn't particularly wowed with my starter but on a very limited menu it was the best choice I felt.

To go with my main course I decided to sample the house white wine; which is a very interesting choice to serve. It's very sweet and I thought I'd been served the dessert wine choice by mistake; I kept reading the board above the bar to try and work out if it was the right one. It's a shame there isn't more choice in wine by the glass but I guess as most of the clientele are probably local and the mark-up on bottles is so small it makes sense to deal in bottles. As husband was driving, a bottle was a bit overkill and I probably wouldn't have remembered leaving.

For our main choices we were very predictable; husband plumped for fallow haunch (venison to us mere mortals) with celeriac, chicory and almond brittle. I went for hake with squash, chard, fried potato and sage butter. I happened to mention in passing to the waitress that I was sad the veggie course from the day previously wasn't still on which was egg and potato cake and she said that the venison came with potato cake and did we want some extra to make up for having to wait for our table. This was totally above and beyond what we were expecting as we didn't wait for our table really and I think husband was relieved he didn't have to share his.

The main course was amazing; the hake was perfectly cooked with a slight bounce. I was warned for bones but I didn't find a single one. The fried potato was like a giant potato croquette which was a lovely golden brown. The squash and leaves combined with the crunch of the deep fried sage leaves. Oh, it was wonderful. It was one of those dishes you can still taste later when you think back and you could eat again and again. Really well done Birch!

Husband's venison was also tasty. The almond brittle added a lovely crunch and sweetness injection into the dish. The venison was perfectly cooked and those potato cakes. Oh my! the potato cakes. I would abandon triple cooked chips for all eternity if I could have Birch's potato cakes. So good.

We finished the meal on that high, as we were totally stuffed and didn't really fancy the pudding selection. We also had homemade peanut butter cup brownies at home. However, when the bill came it was accompanied by some freshly made chocolate truffles. Again a lovely touch.

I had a wonderful birthday at Birch and I'm willing the stars to re-align again so I can go back. I said to husband that Birch is to my generation what Bell's diner was to the generation before me. I think that also reflects Bristol and how areas of Bristol have completed morphed and changed in 20 years. Birch has a great neighbourhood feel and I think it will have a very loyal fan base for many years to come. Well Done Birch team.